Hey mates newbee here with a question?

[jabberwoki]

Well the 70 stuff is the go. From what i`ve found 69 onwards?
I looked breifly at a 76 and they look the same brakewise.
So here`s the price list so far
1.Both bearings $165.76 BCA A23
2. Oil seal x 2 (not sure which is inner or outer) $ 40.18 NAT 5109
3. Oil seal x 2 $28.94 NAT 5123
4. Rotor x 2 $65.90 ADR AX5512
5. Calipers x 2 $52.52 RAY FRC4168

Soooo much cheaper than the 67/68 stuff. Alough it`s a bummer because i`d like to use the original 4 piston stuff.

[Twilight Fenrir]

" Iirc, 70 used a twin-piston caliper," this statement is not correct the 66-67-68 used the single bearing, spindle and hub. However the 67 68 with disc also used the same spindle and bearing with the one piece disc hub assembly this was a 4 piston caliper. This applies to the Eldo too.

The 69-78 Toro use a single piston, this too applies to the Eldo there was never a twin piston caliper used on the first or second Gen cars

It is true that any 4 piston system applies more pressure thru the pads to the disc hence better stopping power, but one again the bean counters are on the job.

Ah, I was thinking of the 4-piston. And off on the years, my bad.

Well the 70 stuff is the go. From what i`ve found 69 onwards?
I looked breifly at a 76 and they look the same brakewise.
So here`s the price list so far
1.Both bearings $165.76 BCA A23
2. Oil seal x 2 (not sure which is inner or outer) $ 40.18 NAT 5109
3. Oil seal x 2 $28.94 NAT 5123
4. Rotor x 2 $65.90 ADR AX5512
5. Calipers x 2 $52.52 RAY FRC4168

Soooo much cheaper than the 67/68 stuff. Alough it`s a bummer because i`d like to use the original 4 piston stuff.

I'm fairly certain you'll need a new steering knuckle as well. The 69+ knuckles with the hub were essentially one-piece, If you remove your one-piece rotor/hub, what will the wheels bolt to?

[xgecko]

If I read his thread properly he has the steering knuckle from the 70 eldo. If he does not, then you are correct and he will need it.

Jabber, might want to check these slotted and cross-drilled rotors out.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/drilled-and-slotted-performance-brake-rotors/p2008488.jcwx?filterid=c15954u0j1#prodDetailTabPanel

I bought similar rotors for about the same price and am very happy with them. They will run cooler and take much longer to fade.

I also recommend ceramic pads.

If you really want killer brakes then upgrade to a Hydroboost system. The braking feel and response is far superior to the original vacuum booster. More work, but well worth it. Let me know if you are interested and I'll get you the info on how to do it.

And of course for the ultimate there is always the Eldorado rear disk conversion I mentioned... can't yet say much on that as I have it on the schedule for next year.

If you want to send me an offline email we can arrange for you to come over and check out my setup. The entire front end is brand new and I have the Hydroboost installed. IIRC you live in Pyuallup which is not far from here.

[jabberwoki]

I did get the 70 spindles so that will answer that question. But luckily i had 2 cars to scavenge off because it took 2 pairs of spindles to get 2 hubs 2 were stuffed and the first car had 2 different spindles? 3 of the spindles had part numbers 377017, 377020,376017. All these spindles had the same sized ball joint holes and looked the same. The other one was beefier but had smaller ball joint holes and a part number 407144 rh.
So there is some more info to conjugate!

[Chazzer]

It's spindle madness I tell yea!

Hey... welcome to Spindle Jeopardy!

"Do you know what ball joint fits that spindle?" "What tie rod do you need?"

I think you found the expensive ball joint spindle..well some of them anyway!

Hey! You could always cut costs by installing the less expensive ball joint spindle on one side!

I'm going through the spindle conversion myself JW. I'm finally converting my 68 drums to discs as others have bravely done before me.

I have had my parts for a good 5 years or so I think. Very nice clean parts that made the journey all the way from Washington State to the Province of Ontario. A fellow Toronant was going to convert his 66 but decided not to. He sent me milk crates full of spindles, calipers, rotors and boosters! The shipping cost way more then what he wanted for the parts! One weird thing though...there was three of one side and one of another!

I just had the old bearings removed. I then sandblast and paint the spindles now they are back at the shop to have the new bearings pressed in.

I'm on the fence though...wondering if I should go all the way...like Xgecko did... with the Hydroboost thing.

Xgecko has shared some very compelling posts on his hydroboost experience. Food for thought..that is for sure..but at the end of the day...I just may not be as adventurous as Xgecko

[xgecko]

Hey Chaz,

Buying the Kanter parts eliminates the 'expensive version' issue as they charge $312 for a full set of ball joints, outer tie rod ends and the suspension bushings. A real deal for sure.

The Hydroboost is awesome in performance but remember you will need to either find a hydroboost unit without the accumulator (I think later models for Buick Regals might be such units) or you need to whack your exhaust pipe a few times to put a clearance dimple in it - assuming, of course, that yours interefered like mine did. I bought aftermarket exhaust and it is possible the bends were not identical. In some ways it is a very simple upgrade, in others not so much. I had torn the car apart anyway and so it was not that big a deal for me, your mileage may vary.

Feel free to ask any questions and I'll do my best to give intelligent-seeming answers.

[jabberwoki]

I got my front end stuff from Kanter i ordered 68 stuff and i`ts all fit with the 70 spindles no prob.

[xgecko]

I do need to add that the reason the Kanter parts eliminate the Knuckle Version issue is that they charge the same for all versions. You still have to make sure you have the ball joints that match the Knuckle. The detail that counts most here is the size of the tapered end of the ball joint where it goes into the Knuckle. There is a fair difference between early and late Knuckles, and the way to identify them is to read the number that is found on the inside of the Knuckle. You are looking for Casting #407144 Or 407145; these are different than Knuckles with other numbers. Rare Parts makes this pretty clear, but their prices are just too high for me.

[Chazzer]

Hey X,

Kudos to you for articulating all the work and upgrades you have done to your Toro.

I do have a request for you though. Would you please start to work on one of the winter projects already! Seriously! I rue the day when you have your Toro completely finished.

Really, I love to visit this site to find a post or two from you on what is happening to the ole 69.

Unfortunately...Twilights posts have been minimized recently. He has apparently been side tracked by a Fiero.

Pity!

I enjoy reading what is happening to him in Toroland also.

Well....thanks to all that post their experiences! It appears you two have been leading the charge on posting your Toro stories lately though.

Dr. B is also very proficient in his posting.

I feel bad really. I have had my 68 off road for a year now.

Ripped slowly into a gazillion pieces.

Problem is it's agonizingly painful for my brain to force this fingers to type anything that remotely makes sense about anything never mind the steps I took in performing a particular task.

Although I must say that I excel in curse words yelled out in the garage. Well that's what the wife and some of the neighbours tell me anyway...

[xgecko]

You sure got me laughing this morning! I have Jabberwoki begging me to get back to him so he can come over and see my car and now I have you begging for more posts on my work!

I can tell you that I began to pull parts off of my 68 in order to restore the headlight covers to working order; the car came without the vacuum acuator. This may seem mundane until I mention that I am toying with designing a replacement actuator based on either an electric actuator from another car or, more likely, on something I find in the McMaster Carr catalog. I prefer the idea of developing a new electric actuator as I don't really like vacuum for anything but telling an EFI system what it needs to know...

I also want to make some nice stainless steel mesh replacements for the hex covers that come from the 68. I can - and may well temporarily - use the 68 covers on my 69, but somehow that seems wrong whereas custom fabbing a set of stainless steel mesh bits and powder coating them black just seems very cool - you see similar things on modern luxury marques as well as in custom car projects. Should not be too hard and I picked up a couple of 24" x 24" pieces of mesh on Amazon for something like $20 each.

Still looking for replacement seats, Dave B pointed out that most of the seats I have been looking at are for sedans and therefore do not fold forward. I want integrated seat belts and luckily it looks like a lot of convertibles have such seats. So far the most common candidate is the Chrysler Sebring Convertible so eventually I will pick up a set of them.

As for the big project everyone is waiting for, I am currently budget constrained or I would be digging into it now. The Fuel Injection upgrade will run approximately $3K or so and is scheduled for sometime in the late winter or early spring at the present time. Believe me, I wish it were sooner!

I also punted the rear disk brake upgrade to the late spring at the earliest as I need to strip the 78 Eldo to get the parts and the weather up here in the Puget Sound area has gone into full wet season. It needs to dry out a bit before I can start taking the Eldo apart - good thing I have a very patient and supportive wife!

I did take the door cards off of the 68 to see how much will be involved in the transfer of the electric windows and realized just how much work it will be on the 69 so I think that will have to wait until I really dig into the interior work. As long as I get the AC transferred this year I can live with the manual windows for now - which work superbly while the 68 regulators are going to need to be replaced.

I plan to attack the Instrument Panel this weekend to see how much is involved in swapping them since the 68 has already been hacked to fit a modern stereo head unit. I also want to remove the clock (I know, heresy!) and replace it with the similar sized tach that the kid that owned it before me wired in below the IP.

So there are a lot of little things I will be doing soon, but I also have to get our software finished so we can convert my side business to a subscription model and start bringing in some serious money to finance my habit. It is a case of working on that now so I can so much more to the car(s) in the future. Hopefully that will be completed soon and we can begin signing up subscribers. The software is for Used and Rare booksellers and it manages their inventory and uploads to various sites that they sell on. We have been out there since 1996 and while we are the best in the biz, the market is small - we currently have about 800 users - and need to switch to a subscription model to keep a decent revenue stream going.

If anyone cares it is at http://www.booktrakker.com

I'll try to keep a stream of updates going as best I can! In the meantime you all enjoy digging into your dinosaurs today!