Toronado.org

The concern for wheel bearing longevity is valid. Major changes in backspacing take available miles off the life of a wheel bearing. If my rear wheel bearings would have lasted 150K miles they may now only last 140K miles.

Of course my Toronado has less than 60K miles in the last five decades and I put about 1K per year from here on. My kids might have to change the wheel bearing now. Sucks for them.

The same 5x5 pattern was used on Chevy 1500 trucks with a backspacing at least 3" sometimes 4" deeper than the Toronado with comperable weight and associated wheel bearing stress. Its still negligible by my assertion.

We ordered a set of Boyds in 18" to cover a set of Wilwood disc brakes.

My toddler decided to contribute his opinion to this thread. I'm not sure how to delete my gibberish last post. My first picture is of the Jeep Rubicon wheel on the rear with the stock drum. The 1.7" wheel studs barely stick out because of the interference from the brake drum. A smaller tire or changes to the suspension would put the outside face of the tire nearly flush with the fender as I desire.

I have tried to upload it several times and with different size resolutions. I have a bunch of other pictures and measurements to upload after this one once I figure it out.

Aftermarket wheels over Wilwood custom brakes

The 1992 Buick drum puts the cooling fins at the bottom versus the top.

I have 2008 Jeep Rubicon rims, 2007 Chrysler Pacifica rims, and 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee rims.

All three options move the tire outboard about 1 inch. All three have the correct center bore through most of the rim but then it necks abruptly down at the edge to a smaller diameter. I've removed the neck and opened it up to full 3.07" bore for the first half inch past WMS. There is about an inch and a half measuring against the stock rim and tire to the outside of the fender. That puts it about a half inch less than flush. This picture shows the Rubicom rim against the stock drum approximately 5/8" further out from where it will sit. That is perfectly flush.

Only the Rubicon wheel is modified and bolted down. The Paccy and ZJ wheels with the wood support are yet to be rebored so they are a half inch away from the WMS.

I paid $50, $100, and $150 respectively total for each set of four rims with tires. The new drums cost $15 each. This Toronado was listed for parts and bound for scrap and it cost $1,500 back in 2006. New exhaust, new head gaskets and valve job, new Edelbrock carb, small cap HEI conversion, new power window motors, new vacuum canisters, generator to alternator conversion, and disk brake conversion with all new parts including brake booster. Its been about $4K total spent. New window seals and rebuilding the busted rivets in the hood hinges are the biggest issues yet to resolve. The interior is a mishmash of two parts cars so deluxe door panels not yet fit to non-deluxe doors and other interior projects remain until its back on the road.

I like the wheels in the center picture best. Even with all that stuff you listed I'd still rather have it than a new Honda.