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Been restoring an Aegean Aqua GT for a number of years now and am finally getting some traction. I have most of the heavy stuff done on the chassis. The trans is done and waiting for the engine I should be soon getting. The biggest hassle believe it or not is the rubber mounts and stuff. None of it is ever exact but I think I've found a solid solution. The Steele Rubber mounts are thinner than the stock parts removed front and rear, and on the rear, the recess for the steel part of the mount is too large for the stock steel mount.

The front should work OK but I had to come up with a solution for the REAR. I bought some "dock washers" that closely fit the recess in the rubber square and will drill out to the correct hole size and weld on a correct length piece of steel tube for the bolt to go through. The good thing is that in using the "dock washers" I'll be able to eliminate the two shims that I found when I disassembled the car as they are much thicker than the stock bearing surface. As far as the thickness issue of the rubber square, the overall depth is correct it's just that the horizontal flat of the square itself is too thin by about 3/16 of an inch compared to a NOS one I have. For that I'll use some black nylon stock to make up the difference. It'll be probably more durable too!



If I can ever figure out how to post pics I'll shoot a few.

Gave up trying to extract the broken, rusted bolts for the rear body mounts (eight hours overall) so I located the area on the floor and cut it out above the channel--worked out great.

Drilled out the spot welds on the cage nuts and while I was at it power washed the channels out along with every other access hole. I have Oklahoma red dirt all over my driveway!

I'll get some new 7/16-14 caged nuts to weld back in and all my mount points will be good as new.

Got the cage nuts and finished making the nylon shims--but now I have a long stretch at work before I can get going again.

Forstner bit at slow speed on my drill press worked great to cut the clean, tight 1-1/2 inch through hole required allow the shim to seat on the rubber pad.