Hi folks,
I am having lots of fun during the assembly of my 66 Toronado.. yes fun until I find parts I bought for the restauration a year ago that don't fit.
I ran into trouble with the CV shaft boots. It seems I got the later ones with the triangle inner boot. Don't know when the shaft's design changed, definetly the '66 has two round boots.
Any ideas where I can order the correct boots? In the pic you see the wrong ones I have got
Thx a lot
Harald
cv shaft boots
- harascho
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:04 pm
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- Years Owned: 1966 Toronado Deluxe owned 1 year
cv shaft boots
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- Otto Skorzeny
- Posts: 1716
- Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:41 pm
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- Years Owned: 1966 Toronado
Re: cv shaft boots
I'm not sure I follow you. I don't even see an inner boot in your photo. Are you just talking about the rubber boot that covers the works and keeps the dirt out? Does the shape of the rubber part affect the operation of the unit or it's functionality on your car?
Does the unit fit and work, otherwise? If so, put it on. If you just need a boot of a certain shape or look, try Summit Racing or Rock Auto.
Does the unit fit and work, otherwise? If so, put it on. If you just need a boot of a certain shape or look, try Summit Racing or Rock Auto.
- Doc Hubler
- Posts: 363
- Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:37 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 992
- Years Owned: 1967
Re: cv shaft boots
Harald,
These look correct to me. I'm not sure what the problem is.
These look correct to me. I'm not sure what the problem is.
- harascho
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:04 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 0
- Years Owned: 1966 Toronado Deluxe owned 1 year
Re: cv shaft boots
The left side boot has a steel supply which is of triangular shape. My original CV joints have a round outside shape.... that won't fit too well 
Harald

Harald
- Doc Hubler
- Posts: 363
- Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:37 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 992
- Years Owned: 1967
Re: cv shaft boots
Harald,
The ones you describe are the correct ones, not round. The are triangular in design with the steel cover, just as in the picture you posted. Maybe your car had been altered before you got it? What year is it again?
The ones you describe are the correct ones, not round. The are triangular in design with the steel cover, just as in the picture you posted. Maybe your car had been altered before you got it? What year is it again?
- Doc Hubler
- Posts: 363
- Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:37 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 992
- Years Owned: 1967
Re: cv shaft boots
Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought 66 and 67 were exactly the same. I find it doubtful those were changed after the first year. Don't know though.
- harascho
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:04 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 0
- Years Owned: 1966 Toronado Deluxe owned 1 year
Re: cv shaft boots
I found this post from another TOA Member here in the forum:
As I knew ALL these Toronados 66-78 and Eldos had dampers on the right side. As for after market axles you are correct in that they make replacement ones and they can be had for reasonable prices $85-$110 on Ebay or internet. I recently bought a GSP axle for my Toronado. As you mentioned all these companies list right and left and 66-78 as the SAME. Now here's the deal...... As you might know 1966 used one type of axle with a very slightly bigger diameter "centering" area on the back of the inboard joint (part that bolts to the output shafts from the final drive unit). In 1967, late 66 the inner joint was changed to a tripod design and the diameter of the centering area on the inboard joint was decreased just slightly. Enough so that you could NOT put a 1966 axle in newer cars. How did they accomplish this with minimal cost? They used a thin centering ring that was pressed into the lip in the output shaft "caps" The ring is very thin and if you try to remove it, it shatters into pieces and falls right out. (I had to do this to allow a 67 final drive to accept my 66 axles). Anyway I wondered HOW they show a 66-78 axle one fits all??? Well because the back of the inboard joint is flat now and dosnt have a lip to center it. This leads to another problem... The bolts are a little smaller then the diameter of the 8 holes so I now have to get some type of sleve to pick up the slack between the hole and the bolts shaft because I will now have to rely on the BOLTS to center the axle! If I dont do this it will be slightly out of round and cause a vibration and probably make the axle fail early. I went with a GSP brand as it looked almost identical to the original 1966 design, even the inboard joint! I havent installed it yet so I cannot comment.
I seems they did change the shaft's design after one year... that leaves me with one possibilty: I will try to locate an aftermarket universal boot that fits the inner side...
to be continued..
Harald
As I knew ALL these Toronados 66-78 and Eldos had dampers on the right side. As for after market axles you are correct in that they make replacement ones and they can be had for reasonable prices $85-$110 on Ebay or internet. I recently bought a GSP axle for my Toronado. As you mentioned all these companies list right and left and 66-78 as the SAME. Now here's the deal...... As you might know 1966 used one type of axle with a very slightly bigger diameter "centering" area on the back of the inboard joint (part that bolts to the output shafts from the final drive unit). In 1967, late 66 the inner joint was changed to a tripod design and the diameter of the centering area on the inboard joint was decreased just slightly. Enough so that you could NOT put a 1966 axle in newer cars. How did they accomplish this with minimal cost? They used a thin centering ring that was pressed into the lip in the output shaft "caps" The ring is very thin and if you try to remove it, it shatters into pieces and falls right out. (I had to do this to allow a 67 final drive to accept my 66 axles). Anyway I wondered HOW they show a 66-78 axle one fits all??? Well because the back of the inboard joint is flat now and dosnt have a lip to center it. This leads to another problem... The bolts are a little smaller then the diameter of the 8 holes so I now have to get some type of sleve to pick up the slack between the hole and the bolts shaft because I will now have to rely on the BOLTS to center the axle! If I dont do this it will be slightly out of round and cause a vibration and probably make the axle fail early. I went with a GSP brand as it looked almost identical to the original 1966 design, even the inboard joint! I havent installed it yet so I cannot comment.
I seems they did change the shaft's design after one year... that leaves me with one possibilty: I will try to locate an aftermarket universal boot that fits the inner side...
to be continued..
Harald
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