Toronado.org

I need new brakes on my 1966 Toro. Do any of you have a material preference and/or brand preference for brake shoes?

Metallic, semi metallic, ceramic, organic, bla, bla, bla?

This car shares duty with 2 other cars as daily transportation so it gets driven like a normal vehicle in all kinds of traffic. I don't autocross it or take it to the brackets on Friday nights but I don't treat it like it's made of glass either.

It is an all stock car with an all stock brake system.

Before I just buy whatever shoes Rock Auto sells, I figured I'd check with you guys first.

Otto,

wasn't there a recent article on this in the Driver?

I have no idea.

Doc Hubler wrote:Otto,

wasn't there a recent article on this in the Driver?

What was the verdict?

Otto,

I will try and look at that, but right now I'm traveling around. Will try to look that up this weekend.

I use organic because it doesn't take as much pressure, and it doesn't wear my
drums & rotors very much. The down side is, it will fade a lot more in extreme
use. I don't get into extreme (multiple high speed stops or racing) situations,
and I use brakes that are on the large end of the scale to begin with.

However, a 66 Toro is not noted for its generous size brakes. If I had one, I
would put on a complete dual circuit front disk system from a 70s Toro; I
don't take chances on brakes (or tires). Bruce Roe

Does organic mean its asbestos? Do they even use asbestos anymore? I assume that is closest to what the original material would have been.

I haven't mic'd the drums yet but in case I need some, do you have any preferences on those? Rock Auto has "non-finned" drums ranging from C-Tec and Centric brands for about $50 up to ACDelco for $65 and Raybestos for $95.

Interestingly the photos used for Raybestos and ACDelco are identical.

Otto,

Organic are the resin based linings; these can't take a lot of hard stops as they glaze over more easily as the organic melts/burns. Asbestos is inorganic.

The Raybestos are the only ones labeled organic and they are the most expensive.

Who knows what the other brands are made from.

I found an older posting of mine where I had reported a complete brake restoration for my 1969. It still stops as good as new.

"This is the most important part that most restorers overlook: Do not get the brake shoes from any auto supply. I located a service (http://brakematerialsandparts.webs.com/) that will custom build the brake shoes. The material must be a “soft composite, non-metallic” material, bonded (not riveted) and arced to fit the brake drum. Arcing removes some material, so riveting will severely limit life.

Brake shoes sold by auto supplies use modern hard metallic material made to last longer. You do not want this. It needs to be soft and non-metallic so friction in maximized. They can be replaced easily for as often as one would drive a classic car. In addition, the surface must be arced to fit the curvature of the drum. Very few places will arc shoes anymore. If you are using new drums, then the service I mentioned above will arc them to the 11” spec. If not, you have to send the original drums to them for fitting.

The primary factors that contribute to restored drum brake systems not working properly is old drums that have been turned and mated to brake shoes that have not been arced to fit the drum and brake shoe material that is too hard. This results in a very small area of very hard material contacting the drum."

I bought new drums from NAPA so as not to have to send them to the people mentioned above.