Hi I just bought a 1966 Toronado that has some issues I’d like to fix and could use some help.
HVAC Non Comfortron System
Can’t change where the air comes out
Can’t change temp from cold to heat
Cruise Control INOP
Headlights INOP
Radio INOP
Power Antenna INOP, Mast Broken
Power Bench Seat INOP
Any guidance and help would be much appreciated
Thanks
Randy
1966 Toronado Issues
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Otto Skorzeny
- Posts: 1720
- Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:41 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 0
- Years Owned: 1966 Toronado
Re: 1966 Toronado Issues
I have found that power seats and power windows that don't work almost always just need to have the contacts cleaned. Find the wiring connections at the switch and motor and clean them up. Make sure the grounds are good.
Disconnect the motor and jump it with alligator clips to the battery to test it.
Make sure tracks, etc aren't jammed with crap, hard grease, etc.
Disconnect the motor and jump it with alligator clips to the battery to test it.
Make sure tracks, etc aren't jammed with crap, hard grease, etc.
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KaydenST
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2020 10:21 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 0
- Years Owned: Own a 1966 Toronado
Re: 1966 Toronado Issues
The system that changes where the air comes out is all vacuum operated. There are numerous vacuum lines that run from the control to four or five vacuum actuators. If any of these hoses become disconnected, torn, ripped, or sliced, the system will not work. Likewise, if a diaphragm is torn in one of the vacuum actuators, the system will not work properly. If you need a photo from the service manual outlining these vacuum lines, just let me know, I'm happy to post it here. The hoses, being almost 60 years old, will also stretch where they fit over vacuum nipples, and won't hold very tightly. There isn't much extra slack to work with, but if you don't want to replace all the vacuum hoses, cutting the stretched end off will still barely give you enough length to use the stock hoses, and they will hold onto the nipples better. Just be glad you don't have comfortron, there are even more components than the already kind of confusing manual a/c system.
The cold/hot temperature is a bowden cable that attaches to the heater control unit on one end (where the temp lever is) and it goes through the firewall and attaches on top of the heater box under the hood. If the cable has broken, like it did for me, it needs to be replaced. I had to source one from a parts car. John Dorcey is a great source, he has a collection of about 50 cars and has a lot of those odds and ends for sale. You can find him on the forums or on Facebook. Othwerise, make sure both ends are connected and secured correctly, and I know there is also a simple adjustment procedure in the factory service manual. I can post that here if you need as well.
The headlights are vacuum operated and use vacuum actuators to raise and lower them. There is a vacuum reservoir and check valve in the system, I can provide a vacuum diagram for that as well if you'd like. It is usually a vacuum leak somewhere or failed actuators that cause the system not to work. There are vacuum tees that sit underneath the vacuum reservoir in the front driver side of the engine compartment. One of them has a small hole in it with a piece of foam covering the hole to slowly bleed off vacuum when the lights are shut off (when they are shut off, the headlight vacuum system is completely isolated from the engine, so there is no vacuum leak created by the hole in the tee.) MAKE SURE this tee stays in the correct position, otherwise the lights won't function correctly. If an actuator is frozen up, you can take it out and carefully put weight on it straight down to free up the piston; they tend to seize up due to the weather and there is a spring that sits below the piston that can rust and corrode, exacerbating the problem. There are vacuum lines that run to the headlight switch, and I've had to address a small leak in the switch. You can't find replacements, so I took mine apart and cleaned and lubricated it. Lots of small parts and contacts and springs in the switch, do this at your own risk. Lastly, the factory metal vacuum tees don't do a great job at holding onto 60 year old hoses because they are smooth, so you can replace them with the plastic ones available today with the ribs. Again, do NOT replace the metal tee that has the foam and the hole UNLESS you create a like sized hole in the plastic tee.
When I got my car, the radio worked but only through the rear seat speaker. My dashboard speaker needed to be rebuilt, so I brought it to a local guy who rebuilds any and all speakers. Maybe that's not your issue, but worth looking into. I'm not sure how those radios work, so if the fuse is good, then it might be something in the unit itself, maybe a blown capacitor or something, idk.
Hope this helps a little!
The cold/hot temperature is a bowden cable that attaches to the heater control unit on one end (where the temp lever is) and it goes through the firewall and attaches on top of the heater box under the hood. If the cable has broken, like it did for me, it needs to be replaced. I had to source one from a parts car. John Dorcey is a great source, he has a collection of about 50 cars and has a lot of those odds and ends for sale. You can find him on the forums or on Facebook. Othwerise, make sure both ends are connected and secured correctly, and I know there is also a simple adjustment procedure in the factory service manual. I can post that here if you need as well.
The headlights are vacuum operated and use vacuum actuators to raise and lower them. There is a vacuum reservoir and check valve in the system, I can provide a vacuum diagram for that as well if you'd like. It is usually a vacuum leak somewhere or failed actuators that cause the system not to work. There are vacuum tees that sit underneath the vacuum reservoir in the front driver side of the engine compartment. One of them has a small hole in it with a piece of foam covering the hole to slowly bleed off vacuum when the lights are shut off (when they are shut off, the headlight vacuum system is completely isolated from the engine, so there is no vacuum leak created by the hole in the tee.) MAKE SURE this tee stays in the correct position, otherwise the lights won't function correctly. If an actuator is frozen up, you can take it out and carefully put weight on it straight down to free up the piston; they tend to seize up due to the weather and there is a spring that sits below the piston that can rust and corrode, exacerbating the problem. There are vacuum lines that run to the headlight switch, and I've had to address a small leak in the switch. You can't find replacements, so I took mine apart and cleaned and lubricated it. Lots of small parts and contacts and springs in the switch, do this at your own risk. Lastly, the factory metal vacuum tees don't do a great job at holding onto 60 year old hoses because they are smooth, so you can replace them with the plastic ones available today with the ribs. Again, do NOT replace the metal tee that has the foam and the hole UNLESS you create a like sized hole in the plastic tee.
When I got my car, the radio worked but only through the rear seat speaker. My dashboard speaker needed to be rebuilt, so I brought it to a local guy who rebuilds any and all speakers. Maybe that's not your issue, but worth looking into. I'm not sure how those radios work, so if the fuse is good, then it might be something in the unit itself, maybe a blown capacitor or something, idk.
Hope this helps a little!
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