Toro Block ID

[bluecab]

Have been cleaning the block up a bit before it goes to the machine shop. It has no numbers, just two holes drilled where the numbers should be, It is a "D" casting. I have not measured bore or stroke to verify that it is a 425. Has anybody seen this before? Maybe a factory supplied short block?

P4190005.JPG (63.96 KiB) Viewed 16721 times

[Stubbe]

According to this it is a 66 425

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofblk.htm

[bluecab]

That is what I thought, the casting numbers match, but I was wondering why there are no chassis matching numbers on the land. It's blank with the exception of two drill marks and some scratches. See photo 2)

[Twilight Fenrir]

That is what I thought, the casting numbers match, but I was wondering why there are no chassis matching numbers on the land. It's blank with the exception of two drill marks and some scratches. See photo 2)

Could be stolen looks like someone drilled/ground the pad off.

Not that it would do any good since the numbers arent individual-vehicle specific in that year. But, someone may not have known that.

[69W34]

A derivative of the VIN 38M6xxxxx did not appear on blocks the until 68, the 66 -67 had their ID stamped on a boss on what would be the front of the right (passengers side) head it matched the protect o plate also the serial number found on the transmissions yellow tag also matched the protect o plate.

[bluecab]

Thanks Bill,
My heads are at the machine shop (along with the block) I'll check next time I'm down there. They should be done hot tanking and disassembling so I'll find out what parts are needed. The lifters are done( as in trashed) and the cam looked wiped out. I found cam specs somewhere, but today I was trying to compare the cams that Mondello sells with the stock numbers I have; hard to interpret without complete specs on the stock cam. The w30 and w31 cams look pretty close but with a little more oomph. Do you think anybody on the forum has run either of these in a '66 with factory manifolds?

[69W34]

It took me a while to interpret the information found in the cam section of the OLDS FAQ, and the cams available from Mondelo. Then assimilate the combined information to what makes the most sense. Given today's fuel quality and the desire for economy you might want to considered on of the Mondello JM-22-18 through JM -34 these are mostly for street applications at a cost of about $150. Mondello can grind an exact match for your application remember the 66 425 toro motor used a 39 degree cam bank angle and large .921 diameter lifters.

As for the W30-31 cams these cams work much better high stall converters and low rear gears

use the link below and scroll down to the CAM section its a good read.

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

NOW with all of that said ..... I have a surprise in store for a future issue of the driver about this very subject.

[xgecko]

I have used the JM-18-20 cam with a 455 that was driving a 69 Toronado in the distant past and it was very, very strong while providing a nice idle. I am about to install the JM-20-22 in my current 69 along with the Edelbrock aluminum heads; this should happen within the next few weeks if all goes well and I can report back idle and power characteristics.

You do know how to break in the new cam? Just in case you are unaware... It is an absolute requirement that you obtain a ZDDP additive such as CamShield or similar so you can raise the level of ZDDP in the oil to around 2,800 PPM for the break-in which you accomplish by running the motor at a varying RPM of 2,000 to 3,000 for about a half hour or so right after you start it. You can then drive the car for about 50 miles keeping the speed varying all the time and not going too high. Change the oil to an oil with about 1,200 PPM of ZDDP -modern oils have around 900, so you either need to add Camshield or similar or buy a specialty oil. Apparently Diesel oils may suffice. Look for an API rating of SL or lower (e.g. SJ) to ensure that the ZDDP level is at least 1,200 to protect your cam.

Failure to follow this procedure will result in a flattened cam and a dished tappet, neither of which are very desireable...

My next build will be a roller cam. That will eliminate this problem.

[bluecab]

I have a boat that is even older (1965) than my Toro that has a pair of SBC's that I have had the opportunity? to rebuild so cam break in is a familiar thing. Quadrajets and restrictive exhaust manifolds and all. The exhaust after the water filled manifolds is 3 inch copper tube, wish I could do that on the toro..