Just how bad are factory Drum brakes on '66?

[69W34]

Now that the disc wheel is load on the hub, one can see how close it (the wheel) is to the caliper now visualize how much work it would be trying to accommodate / fit the drum wheel.

[Schurkey]

Alright! Finally got myself a torsion bar unloader! I managed to score one of the orriginal GM tools, so I know it's compatible!

This place here had the tool... but they wanted too much for it for my tastes...
http://www.gmdealertools.com/index.html

They also do eBay business as "Penybont Pottery" and "PenybontTools" and they're a bunch of crooks.

They ran an eBay auction as "gmdealertools" with a "buy-it-now" price for the newer torsion bar unloader. I pushed the buy-it-now button...and that was the last I ever heard from them other than a short telephone conversation where she sniveled a lot.

About 8 emails and the one telephone call directly to "N. Roisch" in "Pittsburgh" (or New Castle, depending on which internet site I used to trace her phone number) and three or four complaints direct to eBay. I never did get the tool.

The very similar tool for '88-newer GM pickups (should work on Toros, but have not confirmed) is $115 plus shipping from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-7822A/

"I" just use a two-jaw puller and lots of care.

[Schurkey]

I assembled the upper control arm, and the knuckle with the calliper on it... And everything seems to fit just fine. The upper arm has to be pointed downward at almost a 45 degree angle in order for it to get in the way of the calliper. So it would seem you can use a '66 upper control arm in a disc-brake swap, as long as you stick to first-gen era disc brakes. It's not a 100% certainty, as I haven't had final assembly... but it certainly looks promising, my risk may have just paid off

There is NO problem with using the '66 upper control arm IF YOU HAVE THE CORRECT BALL JOINT to fit the newer steering knuckle.

There is a minor difference in the bushing shells; they're interchangeable as an assembly. Since I use (and sell) the polyurethane bushing inserts, I have to perform a minor modification to the poly bushings to make them fit the earlier shells.

I'm considering replacing my entire brake lines with braided stainless... So far though, the longest segment I can find is 60"... and the run to the rear is 10 feet... It's not a big deal to have a splice in the middle I guess... I'd just... rather not. The fewer connections the better. I haven't decided for certain weather I am going to do this now, or at a later date...

The only reason now is really appealing, is because I'd like to put DOT5 in the system, and right now I'll have new pistons on all four wheels... which seems like an ideal time to do so.... I've still got 3 months before my first car show of the year, so I can take my time making up my mind on that part.

It would be an ENORMOUS mistake to use "braided stainless" hose for ten feet of brake plumbing. The system on virtually every vehicle sold is designed with double-wall seamless steel tubing (some folks like stainless steel tubing, but it's hard to seal the flares because the material tends to be very hard.) USE METAL TUBE for the non-flexing part of the brake plumbing. The only hose used is two short sections at the caliper-to-frame mounts; and one at the frame-to-rear-axle.

Using DOT-approved steel braid over Teflon liner hose in those three locations is a smart but somewhat expensive alternative to the usual fabric-reinforced rubber hoses. The Teflon stuff doesn't "balloon" under pressure, results in a firmer and easier-to-modulate brake pedal.

DOT 5 fluid is a similar mistake. Nobody uses it any more except the military. While it doesn't harm paint (its only redeeming feature) it does tend to trap air. Any moisture in the brake system settles at the bottom, (because it doesn't mix with the silicone fluid and disperse) in the wheel cylinders--causing rust and brake fade.

[Twilight Fenrir]

Yeah, I abandoned the braided idea with more research. I'm looking into cunifer tubing at the moment. A copper nickle alloy, that is easy to bend, and virtually corosion-proof. As for dot5, my research has shown it to be quite popular with automotive enthusiasts, and to good results.