1966 Toro Carburetor Help

[sworth66toro]

The spring attached to engine block

sm carb spring.jpg (255.75 KiB) Viewed 12259 times

I need assistance with my carburetor, I think it is missing some linkages, which maybe causing a dieseling problem and poor performance. After the car is warm when you turn the car off it diesels for a few seconds. I've taken a few pics in hopes someone can help identify the problem. There is a spring attached to a bolt on the motor coming from the carb that just doesn't look right. I don't have a reference to compare. Also, the cruise control doesn't work, so I'm assuming that the linkage is not correct. I want to rebuild the carb, but want to make sure everything is the way it should be or correct it at during the rebuild. Any help is appreciated.

[Mikel]

The switch in your last picture is for the kickdown and stall speed change in your torque converter. There is a rod from the throttle shaft in the carb to that switch, which is missing.

[sworth66toro]

Thanks, hope it's not hard to find a replacement. Any idea about the spring running to the engine block?

[Twilight Fenrir]

Thanks, hope it's not hard to find a replacement. Any idea about the spring running to the engine block?

The spring running to your block is your throttle return spring. It's supposed to be there, though that obviously is not the factory orriginal one... That being said, it really doesn't matter as long as it pulls the throttle back to its stop when you have your foot of the gas, and it stretches enough for you to get full movement. If it's not strong enough to pull it to its stop, you'll be idling alot higher than you should be.

And, yes, you are definitely missing the rod that runs to your kickdown switch... The kickdown switch also controls the Switch-Pitch, which not having will make your car slower off the line, or less fuel effecient (Depending on which way the switch is flipped) Difficulty of replacement I couldn't tell you... but it should be easy enough to fabricate one if it comes down to it. It's just a matter of making it the right length. It has to be long enough not to interfere with the throttle, and short enough not to interfere with the full throw of the armiture.

Also, for the record, that's not the orriginal carb. The original was marked with a circular disc on the drivers side beneath the primaries.

[Twilight Fenrir]

This is a VERY old picture of my car... like, from the day I brought it home, so it doesn't look like this anymore >_> But you can clearly see the rod in question... Note, that in this picture, it is actually in the wrong hole on the carburetor arm. Which is why my car didn't run so well originally. There is another hole underneath the throttle cable, and that is where it is supposed to connect.

In addition, you can see the disc that I was referring to that marks the proper era carbs... It's worth noting, mine is also not orriginal, but it is from a '66 oldsmobile. The Toronado's discs were orange, IIRC.

You can also see the throttle return spring...

[sworth66toro]

Thanks for the information, yeah, I researched the carburetor number and it looks like it was for a 330 engine. With that said, will that have a negative impact on performance? If I want to replace the entire carburetor with a modern carb, what would be a good recommendation?

[xgecko]

Two things come to mind when I saw your last post; first the carb may not flow enough for high load WOT use. Second, the jetting is almost certain to be wrong.

You need to determine what the CFM rating of the carb was for the 330. If it is sufficient - 650CFM would be sufficient - then you can tune the jets and perhaps the accelerator pump and perhaps get good results. Sparky is the best one to ask about this.

[sworth66toro]

Thanks, I tried contacting Sparky via email and phone but haven't gotten a response.