Re-wiring power windows/seat on '66

[Twilight Fenrir]

Well, I spent today tearing the dash out of my '66, to, among other things, replace the wiring for the power windows and seat. There was alot more to removing the gauge-cluster than the service manual lead on, but I got it done.

Now, I'm wondering if there's any secrets to doing this. Any wires better than others, better way to run it, etc... Right now, I'm thinking lamp-chord. It's pliant, and pretty tough. Just cut it off inside the car, and fairly close to the switches, and replace the segments one by one with those crimp-sleeves.

[xgecko]

I would strongly suggest getting some similar gauge color coded wire that matches up with the original colors. There are a variety of sources for such wire including Parts Express (www.partsexpress.com) or http://www.wiringproducts.com/

You will not regret this years later when you are tracking down a wiring problem...

[Twilight Fenrir]

Actually, I found a nice alternative I think i'm going to put 3-4of these in instead!

http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless/764/40024/10002/-1

[bluecab]

Hi,
The best wire I can recommend is what is used in Marine (boat) applications. It has a high strand count per gauge which makes it more flexible and resistant to work hardening when repeatedly flexed and it is tinned which makes it less apt to corrode. The best known supplier is Ancor marine, their products are carried by most marine supply houses in a variety of colors and gauges as well as duplex and other multi-conductor configurations.
pm me if you have questions!
David

[Twilight Fenrir]

Hi,
The best wire I can recommend is what is used in Marine (boat) applications. It has a high strand count per gauge which makes it more flexible and resistant to work hardening when repeatedly flexed and it is tinned which makes it less apt to corrode. The best known supplier is Ancor marine, their products are carried by most marine supply houses in a variety of colors and gauges as well as duplex and other multi-conductor configurations.
pm me if you have questions!
David

Hey, thanks for the tip!

I think I've scrapped the door-jamb contacts idea, with 15 wires, it would take 4 units, which cuts out an awful lot of metal somewhere. Instead I'm going to go with my original plan.

I've got two strips of junction thingies. I'm going to put one inside the car, and one inside the door. Wire them up in-sequence. Then, if a wire goes bad, all I have to do is loosen the set-screw, attatch new wire to the end, and pull it through, then re-attatch the new wire. Then color doesn't matter at all. And future repairs will be a cake-walk.

[Toronado66]

If you replace the wire, it will again last for 20-30 years. It is just the opening and closing that does it. Do get very solid connections... use butt connectors and crimp very very solidly... using same gauge auto wiring. Don't short cut on this... you must have same gauge wire...and you should direct wire. You don't want any more resistance than was originally there. Windows and seats draw an enormous amount of power. Over the years I've seen some mighty scorched wires from where the wire started failing and then heated up.

Darwin Falk
TOA#7