1983 toronado- check engine light

[Evilhorde]

I just bought a 1983 toronado and it runs very poorly. It is extremely sluggish and lacking in power.
The dash is throwing a check engine light at me so the car agrees, something is wrong.
I just replaced the distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs and at this moment, I'm running no air cleaner. The oil level seems to be well above the full line. The car has been sitting for a couple of years so the gas may be bad. I haven't decided how to remove the 1/2 tankfull or what I am going to do with it once I do.

How do I read the diagnostic results on this car or does this car even do that? I have an OBDII reader, but this ain't that.
Any other thoughts on what my problem may be?

[DrK]

I have a 1981 Toronado, the first year in which a code reader would work (for cars with 307 engines).
I have a vintage code reader; it just plugs into the diagnostic outlet, and you have to read how many times and in what sequence the lights "blink" at you to "read" where the error codes are.
It should not be hard to find one for cheap; they're nothing fancy.
Advertise on Kijiji or local want ads.
Something tells me you can get an "adapter" for the newer code readers that will allow them to plug in and then interpret this morse code of sorts for you, too.
Hope this helps.
If I remember where mine is, I'll try to post a picture for you.
Good luck; these are beautiful cars.
I spent my day doing body work and respraying the rear fenders around the side marker lights -- a notorious rust spot -- and now my baby looks pretty again!

[Schurkey]

You need a paper clip. Bend it so that it can jumper two terminals of the ALDL connector, then count the flashes of the Check Engine light. Instructions are on the internet. There are "special tools" that do essentially the same thing, except they completely assure that the correct two terminals are jumpered.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/diagnos ... odes5.html

The way I remember the '83's, you can just about count on needing a mixture control solenoid, and an O2 sensor. Beyond that, anything is possible. Be sure to verify that the engine is in decent mechanical condition--compression test, leakdown test, cylinder balance test (if possible due to the poor running of the engine) and assure that the timing chain isn't wiped-out. All the usual "tune-up" stuff needs to be attended to--spark plugs and plug wires usable, timing adjusted properly, PCV and all vacuum hoses in decent condition...you get the idea.

Are the idle mixture screws of the carb still sealed?

[Evilhorde]

I can barely even see the carb through all of the wires. I am not sure about the adjustments yet.

I don't know why, but I can not get an engine code from this thing.
I have tried jumpering it before I turn the key on and I have tried jumpering after I turn the key on. The engine simply light will not flash. Do I need to have the engine running to pull codes from a Toronado? That would be no easy feat. The seat is set all the way forward and is siezed, the engine won't stay running without constant pedal motion and I can't see the obd1 connector when my knees are jammed up into it.

Will I get better results by cutting the obd wires from the plug and splicing them directly? Currently I am trying to jumper with a piece of solid core residential wiring. This seems like a ridiculously easy procedure, I cannot even begin to guess why I am unable make this work.

[Schurkey]

I have tried jumpering it before I turn the key on and I have tried jumpering after I turn the key on. The engine simply light will not flash. Do I need to have the engine running to pull codes from a Toronado?

No. Ignition on, engine off.

Will I get better results by cutting the obd wires from the plug and splicing them directly? Currently I am trying to jumper with a piece of solid core residential wiring. This seems like a ridiculously easy procedure, I cannot even begin to guess why I am unable make this work.

First guess: Residential wiring is too large-diameter. You aren't getting appropriate contact with the terminals. I wasn't kidding when I suggested a paper clip.

Second Guess: The Check Engine Light doesn't work properly. Plenty of these vehicles had the CEL disabled because the owner wouldn't pay to have the system fixed properly. Does the CEL light up when you start the engine?

[Evilhorde]

When the key is ON (engine running or not) the cel light is lit up.
I first tried this with some stranded 12 gauge wire, then decided that maybe it wasn't contacting properly so I tried the solid core wire for a better fit. Same result. The cel light comes on and stays on solidly. My plug exactly matches the obd1 plug in my manual, the plug on the link you provided (great link by the way) and the plug on every page I have found for myself so I feel very confident that I am dealing with obd1 and not some other mid development diagnostic system.

When the sun comes up, I will try a shiny new paperclip.
Step #1- paper clip in, jumpering the two top right pins,
#2 key to the ON position, engine not running,
#3 watch the pretty light flash 'code 12'.


I don't see how this could be easier. I am NOT looking forward to troubleshooting this engine via the 'drain my bankbook method' by replacing every sensor in a mid eighties car. Especially when it turns out to be a bad mouthful of gas in the carb.

Thanks for the advice and I will post back after I try again.

[Evilhorde]

Same result. I tried two different guages of paperclip. To my eyes it looks as though I am making contact.
With the ignition ON, the CEL light comes on solid when it is running and when it is not.
Does it take a long time to kick into diagnostic mode? I am giving it a couple of minutes. Does it take five minutes or more?

I went straight from 'listening with 1/2 inch hose' to 'OBD II' so I don't have a lot of 'OBD I' experience.