Well.... not really. I am not completely certain, but the internal tolerances of the lifters may be matched. It is also likely that there could be internal wear patterns in the lifter.
On the other hand, it might be possible to take the bad one apart and repair it. Not sure, but might be worth a shot.
Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or park...
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xgecko
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:21 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 831
- Years Owned: My first Toronado was a 1968 W-34 with the bucket seats and center console... (weeps gently) It was a New England rustbucket in 1982 after less than 14 years. So sad. But it is what infected me and before I knew it I had another '68, a '69, a '70 and eventually inherited a friend's '67 and another friends '73. After buying my brand new Grand Prix in 1988 I retired the last of my Toronados and pulled the 455 I had rebuilt along the way and put it into storage in a friend's barn where it is to this day.
In Mid September of 2010 I happened to see a repeat of the show where Jay Leno did his 66 Toronado and had an instant remission of the disease which resulted in my purchase of a 1969 in very good condition. I am now in the process of fully rehabilitating it and hope to have it on the road in the spring of 2011. - Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
I have my Fuel Injected Toronado. Life is good! 
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
I would avoid dissembling or exchanging the internals of the new /old lifter. Any number of things can go awry during the dis-assembly / re-assembly process. An one oh $#!+ and you'll be buying another lifter.
Bill
TOA #1
TOA #1
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xgecko
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:21 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 831
- Years Owned: My first Toronado was a 1968 W-34 with the bucket seats and center console... (weeps gently) It was a New England rustbucket in 1982 after less than 14 years. So sad. But it is what infected me and before I knew it I had another '68, a '69, a '70 and eventually inherited a friend's '67 and another friends '73. After buying my brand new Grand Prix in 1988 I retired the last of my Toronados and pulled the 455 I had rebuilt along the way and put it into storage in a friend's barn where it is to this day.
In Mid September of 2010 I happened to see a repeat of the show where Jay Leno did his 66 Toronado and had an instant remission of the disease which resulted in my purchase of a 1969 in very good condition. I am now in the process of fully rehabilitating it and hope to have it on the road in the spring of 2011. - Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
While I do agree, he is trying to buy time and I am not sure which is the better of two undesirable ideas; replacing a single lifter is not without it's risks, and since he has the lifter on order it cannot hurt to try to repair the old lifter. If successful he might be better off than if he replaces just the one...
I have my Fuel Injected Toronado. Life is good!
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Twilight Fenrir
- Posts: 473
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:29 am
- TOA Membership Number: 839
- Years Owned: 1982 Chevrolet El Camino
1986 Pontiac Fiero
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
Bloody hell, either I've become even more of a wuss, or that intake manifold is HEAVY.
Anywho, once I got it off it became apparent that my lifter had infact come appart. All the pieces were right there though, except the check ball.... So, probably a no to rebuilding it. It's disgusting how much sludge there was in there, after this I'm going to run a bottle of seafoam in the oil and run it for a hundred or two miles then change the oil again, just to make sure I get the sludge out, and incase any debris got in there while I have it appart.
Everything looks pretty good under there, I even removed the little rail in the center of the valley to clean it, and I discovered the camshaft is right there, lol. Never actually seen one before. All the lobes look pretty, there's no unusual wear patterns that I can see, but I'm only looking at a stationary point. The surface appears to be straight across, no grooves worn into anything.
But, now I have another thing to add to my "things I now must do" list. While trying to remove the fuel line to the carb, I broke the little "T" fitting ont he side of the fuel pump. I tried to hold it still with a crescent wrench while I torqued on it with the flare wrench, but it just snapped right off... Can I find this part seperate, or do I need to get a new fuel pump? I think I can EZ-out the part still in the fuel pump.
And, on that note, I'm off to o'Reily's to pick up some break-in oil, and RTV silicone. My new lifter and intake gasket should be ariving any time now from Fedex.
Anywho, once I got it off it became apparent that my lifter had infact come appart. All the pieces were right there though, except the check ball.... So, probably a no to rebuilding it. It's disgusting how much sludge there was in there, after this I'm going to run a bottle of seafoam in the oil and run it for a hundred or two miles then change the oil again, just to make sure I get the sludge out, and incase any debris got in there while I have it appart.
Everything looks pretty good under there, I even removed the little rail in the center of the valley to clean it, and I discovered the camshaft is right there, lol. Never actually seen one before. All the lobes look pretty, there's no unusual wear patterns that I can see, but I'm only looking at a stationary point. The surface appears to be straight across, no grooves worn into anything.
But, now I have another thing to add to my "things I now must do" list. While trying to remove the fuel line to the carb, I broke the little "T" fitting ont he side of the fuel pump. I tried to hold it still with a crescent wrench while I torqued on it with the flare wrench, but it just snapped right off... Can I find this part seperate, or do I need to get a new fuel pump? I think I can EZ-out the part still in the fuel pump.
And, on that note, I'm off to o'Reily's to pick up some break-in oil, and RTV silicone. My new lifter and intake gasket should be ariving any time now from Fedex.
TOA #839
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xgecko
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:21 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 831
- Years Owned: My first Toronado was a 1968 W-34 with the bucket seats and center console... (weeps gently) It was a New England rustbucket in 1982 after less than 14 years. So sad. But it is what infected me and before I knew it I had another '68, a '69, a '70 and eventually inherited a friend's '67 and another friends '73. After buying my brand new Grand Prix in 1988 I retired the last of my Toronados and pulled the 455 I had rebuilt along the way and put it into storage in a friend's barn where it is to this day.
In Mid September of 2010 I happened to see a repeat of the show where Jay Leno did his 66 Toronado and had an instant remission of the disease which resulted in my purchase of a 1969 in very good condition. I am now in the process of fully rehabilitating it and hope to have it on the road in the spring of 2011. - Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
You should have no trouble gettting a new fuel pump elbow once you realize one end is the flare style and the other is an NPT fitting. Can't remember the sizes off hand, but inspection should provide the answer.
Geez, at this point you might as well pull the radiator and install a new cam... and make your life easier by about 30 lbs by getting one of the Rockwell intakes. You can always do a full rebuild later and get the aluminum heads; but at least you will have already gotten the intake...
which of course leads to a carb replacement.
The knee bone leads to the thigh bone...
Geez, at this point you might as well pull the radiator and install a new cam... and make your life easier by about 30 lbs by getting one of the Rockwell intakes. You can always do a full rebuild later and get the aluminum heads; but at least you will have already gotten the intake...
which of course leads to a carb replacement.
The knee bone leads to the thigh bone...
I have my Fuel Injected Toronado. Life is good!
-
Twilight Fenrir
- Posts: 473
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:29 am
- TOA Membership Number: 839
- Years Owned: 1982 Chevrolet El Camino
1986 Pontiac Fiero
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
xgecko wrote:You should have no trouble gettting a new fuel pump elbow once you realize one end is the flare style and the other is an NPT fitting. Can't remember the sizes off hand, but inspection should provide the answer.
Geez, at this point you might as well pull the radiator and install a new cam... and make your life easier by about 30 lbs by getting one of the Rockwell intakes. You can always do a full rebuild later and get the aluminum heads; but at least you will have already gotten the intake...
which of course leads to a carb replacement.
The knee bone leads to the thigh bone...
lol, no, cut it out
It only took like... an hour to get to this point... I'm really not that concerned about doing it again down the road. I love Oldsmobile, didn't even have to remove the distributor to get the manifold out...And, it's 1/4 npt on the pump, and I don't care about the other end I guess, I'm going with a rubber hose untill I can find a nice braided line
TOA #839
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xgecko
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:21 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 831
- Years Owned: My first Toronado was a 1968 W-34 with the bucket seats and center console... (weeps gently) It was a New England rustbucket in 1982 after less than 14 years. So sad. But it is what infected me and before I knew it I had another '68, a '69, a '70 and eventually inherited a friend's '67 and another friends '73. After buying my brand new Grand Prix in 1988 I retired the last of my Toronados and pulled the 455 I had rebuilt along the way and put it into storage in a friend's barn where it is to this day.
In Mid September of 2010 I happened to see a repeat of the show where Jay Leno did his 66 Toronado and had an instant remission of the disease which resulted in my purchase of a 1969 in very good condition. I am now in the process of fully rehabilitating it and hope to have it on the road in the spring of 2011. - Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
I know that it is true they are pretty easy to work on... but it will only take another hour to get the radiator out! And make a hell of a mess...
That said, I can fully understand your comment about doing a certain level now and then going farther later as that is my current philosophy as well. I always enjoy working on my car; the only thing I do not enjoy so much is when I do more of that than driving...
my cure for that will be to have one car in the shop and another on the road at all times... 
thus my quest to find a nice Riviera or to work on my 68. If I find a nice Riv I will drive it for a while and completely restore my 69 Toro after which I will rip out the drivetrain from the Riv and install a modern GM 6.2L engine and 6 speed transmission and... if I can manage it... the IRS from a modern Camaro or equivalent.
Failing that I can always look for a 68-69 parts car and get the 68 on the road while I drive the 69.
That said, I can fully understand your comment about doing a certain level now and then going farther later as that is my current philosophy as well. I always enjoy working on my car; the only thing I do not enjoy so much is when I do more of that than driving...
my cure for that will be to have one car in the shop and another on the road at all times... thus my quest to find a nice Riviera or to work on my 68. If I find a nice Riv I will drive it for a while and completely restore my 69 Toro after which I will rip out the drivetrain from the Riv and install a modern GM 6.2L engine and 6 speed transmission and... if I can manage it... the IRS from a modern Camaro or equivalent.Failing that I can always look for a 68-69 parts car and get the 68 on the road while I drive the 69.
I have my Fuel Injected Toronado. Life is good!
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
...... so check this out! It ran OK but with no miss it was really ugly inside!
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Bill
TOA #1
TOA #1
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xgecko
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:21 pm
- TOA Membership Number: 831
- Years Owned: My first Toronado was a 1968 W-34 with the bucket seats and center console... (weeps gently) It was a New England rustbucket in 1982 after less than 14 years. So sad. But it is what infected me and before I knew it I had another '68, a '69, a '70 and eventually inherited a friend's '67 and another friends '73. After buying my brand new Grand Prix in 1988 I retired the last of my Toronados and pulled the 455 I had rebuilt along the way and put it into storage in a friend's barn where it is to this day.
In Mid September of 2010 I happened to see a repeat of the show where Jay Leno did his 66 Toronado and had an instant remission of the disease which resulted in my purchase of a 1969 in very good condition. I am now in the process of fully rehabilitating it and hope to have it on the road in the spring of 2011. - Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
I have to ask... what is the story behind this? 
I have my Fuel Injected Toronado. Life is good!
-
Twilight Fenrir
- Posts: 473
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:29 am
- TOA Membership Number: 839
- Years Owned: 1982 Chevrolet El Camino
1986 Pontiac Fiero
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado
Re: Engine idles rough in "Drive" but fine in neutral or par
Whew, after a full day of crunching, I got my car back together, and it seems to run great again
The fuel inlet issue was the aluminum plug that was poured into the front after the carb was manufactured... I drilled it out, and stuck a piece of tube with a much too large bolt in it for testing purposes and it stopped leaking. I'll tap it and put in a threaded plug in the next couple days.
The vacuum is still all over the place though... I'm sure I need a valve job after 130K miles, but still...
Anywho, car is running, I'm happy. Thanks again for all the help
The fuel inlet issue was the aluminum plug that was poured into the front after the carb was manufactured... I drilled it out, and stuck a piece of tube with a much too large bolt in it for testing purposes and it stopped leaking. I'll tap it and put in a threaded plug in the next couple days.
The vacuum is still all over the place though... I'm sure I need a valve job after 130K miles, but still...
Anywho, car is running, I'm happy. Thanks again for all the help
TOA #839
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